Dressing like all other aspects of human nature changes with time. However, the ceremonial graduation outfit as currently used has not changed for many generations. It has remained as an outfit that uniquely symbolizes the accomplishment of academic pursuit from levels varying from the elementary to the very advanced.
The academic outfit traces its roots to the oldest English-speaking advanced learning centre in the world, the Oxford University in England way back in 1096. Academic regalia used were adopted from the style of cloths worn by monks and church clerics. The modern costume, which includes the gown, the hood and the cap, has been the main feature of these gowns for almost 1000 years.
The dress used in those days served a practical purpose. According to the custom then, monks were shaved, when seated in primitive unheated buildings, it was necessary to have some form of protecting clothing against the cold. The wraparound scarf or hood as well as caps served this purpose. Over the generations, these hoods and headgear evolved into ceremonial components in nature serving no practical function.
The modern design of the cap is a combination of two types of caps that were in use then. The first type was a skullcap that was mainly black while the other, called a pileus quadralus was a square cap placed on top of the skullcap. The modern cap is also known as a mortarboard, a name coined with reference to the shape of the cap.
Rules and regulations regarding academic costumes at the university before the fourteenth century were vague. By the start of the fourteenth century, learning institutions began adopting a specific standard for use. At this time, the academic attire was cut in a unique manner essentially differentiating it from other attire. Color at this time was not of great concern. The robes consisted of heavy cumbersome material.
By the late fifteenth century, universities were more exposed to external influence. The general trend was towards shorter and less cumbersome garments. This was in line with changing culture norms, people needed to be more active. Another notable change was in the gown structure, previously its form was that of a dress, it was later opened up and the size of the sleeves increased.
The structure of universities changed drastically. Three unique associations emerged, first the faculty, composed of those learning and teaching the same or similar subjects, second the college which was essentially a corporate entity and third the nation, where foreigners or alien’s rights were defended. The first two associations impacted mainly the color of gowns. For example, faculty colors at Oxford and Cambridge for theology students was black while various shades of blue stood for philosophy students. Founders of private colleges required their members to wear specific garments, more so in England and Spain. It is therefore apparent that there were many variations of attire. Special dresses representing various nationalities were discouraged, probably to avoid the prospect of creating rivalries among students.
Academic robes will probably remain unchanged for a long time to come still. The peculiar vintage look of the gowns gives them a certain aesthetic appeal across all educational ranks, right from kindergarten graduation gown to the highest academic level, doctoral graduation gowns.